Happy St. Patrick's Corned Beef & Cabbage Day!
From Dublin pubs to family tables, authentic corned beef and cabbage with Irish travel tales and the story behind the carrots
My first visit to Ireland began with a ‘welcome to Ireland’ complete with an open kilt! Next, a St. Patrick’s Day parade in Dublin, rumors of Bono & and Edge popping into local bars, eating and drinking in Temple Bar, a wet stone kiss at the Blarney Castle, a visit to Newgrange (a prehistoric monument), and a trek to Northern Ireland to catch a boat to Scotland, a story for another time!
My second visit was with my sisters and mom. My third with my sisters and the kids.
In honor of the holiday and our many St. Patrick’s Day gatherings with family, friends, and our local priests, I decided to share an excerpt from my journal during a trip to Ireland in 2002. I hope it inspires you to gather around your table this Sunday, cook up some corned beef and cabbage, and share your stories with your friends and family.
It’s Wednesday, and we’re in Dublin. At the Clarence Hotel. Collin, our host, took good care of us upon arrival and led us to our rooms. Awaiting was a bottle of champagne and a bowl of oranges. My sister wanted desperately to sleep, but the rest of us persuaded her otherwise (jet lag). Tired, we all stumbled through the day, ate lunch at a local pub in Temple Bar, then went shopping on Grafton St. The next day, we ate breakfast at the hotel. It was a delicious Irish breakfast complete with rashers, scrambled eggs, muesli, toast, coffee, tea, cream, and individually served bowls of various fruits – strawberries, kiwi, oranges, and berries. We took a city bus tour through Dublin. Visited St. Patrick’s Church and Christ Church, then headed to Guinness for a very long tour and a pint. After a short break and a visit to the National Museum and Collins Barracks, we headed to Jameson for a tour of their whiskey distillery. During the tour, my family persuaded me to volunteer for their blind tasting. We learned about the coopers – the makers of the barrels – and the nicknames for some of the barrels, Twitterdick and Doggie! I was pretty dizzy after trying 6 types of whiskey: 4 Irish, 1 Scottish, and 1 Kentucky Bourbon (I could tell in an instant it was Jack Daniels, my grandpa’s favorite). I liked Bushmills best. That evening, we headed to Botticelli, a wonderful Italian restaurant in Temple Bar. Then to The Temple Bar, where we drank Murphy’s and Baileys and listened to traditional Irish tunes. By the end of the night, we were singing American Pie and La Bamba led by an Irish band, the entire bar joining in the merriment. The next morning, another wonderful breakfast at the hotel, then off to Trinity College. We toured the grounds, viewed the Book of Kells, and visited the Long Room Library, dripping in mahogany, with busts of writers and dignitaries from the past. We walked around the old oak trees, planted in the 1700s, then visited Dublin Castle. Underground, we saw the original moat and the base of the tower that once stood there. We learned where the name ‘Dublin’ comes from: ‘duv’ meaning pond or pool, and ‘lin’ for dark. The City of Dublin was named after the dark pool of water that stood outside the walls of the city, where the Dubliners ‘Libertarians once lived. Next, through Stephen’s Green, then to the Shelbourne Hotel for peppermint tea and finger sandwiches.
I hope I’m not making you sleepy. Perhaps I should move forward a little more quickly and get to the end of this story, so you can eat.
The same evening, we had a drink at the Octagon Bar and met a group of Englishmen and Frenchmen visiting for the weekend to celebrate their Irish friend from Tipperary. The group was from Nottingham. After chatting with them for a while, we left to see a ‘Ragus’, a traditional music and dance company from the Aran Islands. When the show ended, we walked to The Quays for a drink and stumbled upon the merry group from the hotel. Then all hell broke loose! Well, they are from the home of Sherwood Forest and Robin Hood! We talked, sang, and drank, and when the bar was about to close, everyone – I mean everyone in the bar – sang ‘God Save the Queen’. It was a sight to behold! They persuaded us to go with them to Boomerang, a nightclub. Entry required a stamp with a ‘shag tag’, even my mom! We danced the night away to techno tunes until 2:30, when the nightclub closed. We said our goodbyes and then walked home, picking up Chinese food on the way - for the munchies, you know!
Hungover and exhausted, it was time to explore the rest of Ireland. We rented a car, left Dublin, and drove towards Kilkenny, unable to stop repeating “Who Killed Kenny’ thanks to the popular ‘South Park’. We took a break in Kildare, touring the Irish National Stud, walking among retired stallions, mares, foals, and miniature horses. The road to Kilkenny was lined with trees and farmland. As we drove into the City, our eyes fixed on the magnificent Kilkenny Castle in front of us. We turned and parked at Cnoc Mhuire.
to be continued…
This story could go on for hours. We’re just 3 days into a 10-day trip! If you’re at a dining table, it’s likely time to smile at your storyteller to cue them to wrap it up or finish the story later over a glass of whiskey.
I hope you enjoyed this little walk through 2002 Ireland. I imagine much has changed, but the memories never fade. Well, maybe some of them do. That’s why a story around the table can bring it all back!
St. Patrick’s Day is a festive day in our family. We dress in green, play Irish music, cook corned beef, cabbage, potatoes, and carrots, and let the Guinness flow.
A little history on corned beef and carrots.
The cow was once a symbol of wealth among the Celts. That is, until the English conquered Ireland. Then the cow became a food commodity. Though it was too expensive for the Irish. International trade and the potato famine sent the beef and the Irish to the New World. The Irish Americans purchased the more affordable beef from their Eastern European Jewish neighbors - kosher brisket. And corned beef became an American tradition.
As you’ve probably noticed, the Irish flag is composed of green, white, and orange. Green represents the Catholics, orange the Protestants, and white peace between the two. Very traditional Irish still choose to leave the carrots out of their corned beef dish. Since I am Irish and English, I made a truce with myself and included the carrots!
Corned Beef and Cabbage, Potatoes & Carrots, a traditional Irish American dish
Serves 8
Kitchen Tools
Ingredients
4 lb. brisket, flat with seasoning packet
1 onion, sliced
8 thyme sprigs
1 tsp. black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
5 garlic cloves, sliced
2 cups beef broth
1 bottle Guinness Draught
Water as needed
1 head green cabbage, quartered
1 lb. to 2 lb. medium-sized gold potatoes, quartered
1 lb. carrots, peeled, 1/2 inch slices on a bias
Instructions
Rinse the brisket in cold water to remove the salt. Set aside. Add onion, thyme, peppercorn, garlic, brisket, bay leaves, beef broth, and Guinness to the pot. Add water, as needed, to cover the brisket. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 3-4 hours. Once tender, remove the brisket from the pot, cover with foil, and let rest.
Remove the bay leaves and the thyme sprigs from the pot. Add carrots, potatoes, and cabbage. Simmer until tender, 30 to 60 minutes (depending on the size of your potatoes).
When the vegetables are cooked to your liking, remove them and place them on a platter or in a large bowl. Slice the brisket against the grain, then add it to the platter or bowl. Ladle the broth and serve. Enjoy!
Tip
If your brisket starts to float, use a porcelain plate to hold it down. Porcelain is heat-resistant and won’t release harmful substances. Be careful when removing it from the pot; it will be hot.
Sláinte!
This was very interesting to hear your story about Dublin and see your beautiful meal Thank you
Great memories! Love the stories! Making that corn beef and cabbage now! ☘️ Happy St. Patrick’s Day ☘️